Yellow Iron Oxide is the super common inorganic (as in no carbon atom in the molecule) pigment that gives the yellow tones in your foundation. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. Probably the most common silicone of all. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. It’s not strong enough to be used in itself so it’s always combined with something else, often with potassium sorbate. Bella Vita Anti Aging Reviews Murad Anti Aging Moisturizer Expiration Date Anti Aging Face Mask With Egg. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Hyaluronic Acid intensely hydrates and restores skin's moisture. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. Powerful hydrator and skin plumper that provides multi-layer, long-lasting moisture to restore and strengthen skin’s natural hydrating levels. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/​VP Copolymer, Dimethicone/​Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Read all the geeky details about Hyaluronic Acid here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge, It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water, It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only), High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin, Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin), Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study), Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule. Rohto Hada Labo Ultimate Moisturizing Light Lotion: rated 5 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. A semi-essential (infants cannot synthesize it, but adults can) amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. The unfancy name for it is lye. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. The most common skincare ingredient of all. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. an amazing humectant and moisturizer. An emollient ester with a rich and creamy but non-greasy skin feel. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). Thanks to all its beneficial components, Purslane Extract has several magic properties: it's a great anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent and also has wound healing abilities. It’s approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry (E415). The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. Rinse thoroughly. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. The reason for this is that salt acts as a fantastic thickener in cleansing formulas created with ionic cleansing agents (aka surfactants) such as Sodium Laureth Sulfate. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). (Use it at night if possible!). It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. DESCRIPTION Formulated with three types of Hyaluronic Acid, the Hada Labo Goku-Jyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion will keep skin smooth and hydrated. Gentle cream, when applied to the skin feels fresh, silky smooth. Blended with red and black iron oxides, it is essential in all "flesh-toned" makeup products. A great moisturizer and anti-inflammatory ingredient that also helps wound healing and skin regeneration. ... Moisturizer. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. An extremely common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. Rohto Hada Labo Ultimate Moisturizing Light Lotion: rated 5 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terribly effective. Apply a pea-size amount into palm and work into lather. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. If you are into chemistry (if not, we understand, just skip this paragraph), the reason is that electrolytes (you know, the Na+ and Cl- ions) screen the electrostatic repulsion between the head groups of ionic surfactants and thus support the formation of long shaped micelles (instead of spherical ones) that entangle like spaghetti, and viola, a gel is formed. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. It usually has to be neutralized with a base (such as sodium hydroxide) for the thickening to occur and it creates viscous, clear gels that also feel nice and non-tacky on the skin. The salt form of one of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients in the licorice plant, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate. Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion Moist contains 3 types of hyaluronic acids to intensively moisturize for a more radiant skin. It’s a solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. It forms a non-occlusive film on the surface of the skin. It's free of allergens, gluten, sulfates, parabens, polyethylene glycol (PEG) and synthetic fragrances. Gently massage onto face, using circular motions. It’s the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. An error has occurred. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showing RP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. Or, if you feel your skin needs additional moisture after it has absorbed the HADA LABO Goku-jyun Clear Lotion, follow it with the HADA LABO Goku-jyun Serum, HADA LABO Goku-jyun Milk, or HADA LABO Goku-jyun Cream—or a combination of all three, depending on the level of your moisturizing needs Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit  "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". It's often paired with glyceryl stearate - the two together form a super effective emulsifier duo that's salt and acid tolerant and works over a wide pH range. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. It's a very pure and hypoallergenic emollient that's also ideal for baby care products. An emollient ester with a rich and creamy but non-greasy skin feel. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that helps to create beautiful gel-like textures. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. It works over a very wide pH range (3-12) and can be used to thicken up low-ph formulas, such as exfoliants. See 2 member reviews and photos. (Well, in fact using a sunscreen is always a good idea. Enriched with three kinds of hyaluronic acid to improve the skin's moisture-retention abilities, plus collagen to restore firmness and elasticity, and ceramide to infuse moisture. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. BTW, it’s also a food additive. It is also so gentle and non-irritant that it can actually be used in cleansers to reduce the irritating potential of harsh surfactants, aka cleansing agents. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. In fact, the HADA LABO Goku-jyun Clear Lotion can be used as a standalone moisturizer. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin. Instructions : After removing your makeup and cleansing with HADA LABO Goku-jyun Face Wash, pour a nickel-size amount of the lotion into your palm and rub between your hands to warm. It also gives sensorial benefits to the formula and when used in cleansers, it helps to make them milder and gentler. Hada Labo Hydrating Milk. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. The most common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. HADA LABO Goku-jyun Alpha Lotion. A vegetable-based, PEG-free ingredient whose job is to help water and oil to mix nicely together (emulsifier). After 8 weeks there was a significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height and skin roughness has also improved greatly. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. Probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. It's a famous plant in Korean traditional medicine to treat infection and irritated skin. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). Sodium Hyaluronate(Large-Size Ha),Sodium Hyaluronate(Nano Ha), Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), take a look at more promising derivatives here, As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description, summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here, You can read all about the pure form here, Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It's a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products, It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer, It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section), Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. However, if you use a product that you like and it also contains RP, there is no reason to throw it away. After using their hype product Hada Labo Hydrating lotion, I am intrigued to try their other products as well. Buy Rohto Hada Labo and other Japanese Beauty Skincare in Australia at Lila Beauty. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! By steps, we mean metabolic steps. Us… So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits,  but it seems to fall short on several things. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. If possible use it at night, just to be on the safe side. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. Arbutin Whitening Cream 50g. 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