If you are into vitamin C, you can take a look at more promising derivatives here. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action: on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles then diffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple. Ingredients Super Hyaluronic Acid™: Proprietary combination of 3 types of Hyaluronic Acid. Refreshing light-weight cream texture that gives skin an instant surge of suppleness and non-greasy comfort. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Chemically speaking, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), however, the ingredients called jojoba esters on the ingredient lists are made from jojoba oil and/or hydrogenated jojoba oil via interesterification. What is Super Hyaluronic Acid? A natural and sustainable helper ingredient that can improve the absorption of the formula and it also reduces oiliness on the skin. 1 gram of Super Hyaluronic Acid is said to be able to hold up to 12 liters of water. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It is also a natural osmoprotectant, meaning that it attracts water away from the protein surface and thus protects them from denaturation and increases their thermodynamic stability. Sodium Hyaluronate(Large-Size Ha),Sodium Hyaluronate(Nano Ha), Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), take a look at more promising derivatives here, As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description, summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here, You can read all about the pure form here, Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It's a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products, It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer, It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section), Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. Buy Rohto Hada Labo and other Japanese Beauty Skincare in Australia at Lila Beauty. A couple of percents (typically 1-3%) turns a runny surfactant solution into a nice gel texture. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. Vitamin C – To even our skin tone and reawaken dull skin caused by UV rays, leaving skin smooth and supple. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. The result is a partly water- and partly oil-loving molecule that creates stable and smooth emulsions that are also cosmetically elegant. Can you guess what? Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. This one is the so-called esterified version. The cream soaks up quickly leaving no white streaks, no greasy, Ingredients in Hada Labo UV White Gel cream: Whitening Ingredients: Vitamin C. Moisturizing ingredients: hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid Na. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. Bottom line: Beta-glucan is a great ingredient, especially for sensitive skin. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). Thanks to the positive charge, it also creates a complex with AHAs (AHAs like to lose a hydrogen ion and be negatively charged, so the positive and the negative ions attract each other) that causes a "time-release AHA effect" and reduces the irritation associated with AHAs. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Rohto Hada Labo Goku-Jyun Premium Hyaluronic Acid Lotion 170ml Works as an excellent surface hydrator in skincare. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. A commonly used water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier. If (similar to us) you are in the weird habit of reading the label on your shower gel while taking a shower, you might have noticed that sodium chloride is almost always on the ingredient list. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it's nice). It is also less sticky and more cosmetically elegant than normal HA, so no wonder the nickname of this molecule is super hyaluronic acid. ... Dry Skin Cream 635 reviews. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). If (similar to us) you are in the weird habit of reading the label on your shower gel while taking a shower, you might have noticed that sodium chloride is almost always on the ingredient list. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. Ceramides make up 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. Normal, everyday table salt. You must go and read our geeky details about it.). Free Shipping available. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. Tretinoin, aka retinoic acid, is the active ingredient our skin cells can understand and retinyl palmitate (RP) has to be converted by our metabolic machinery to actually do something. It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. A natural multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier and has a strong antimicrobial activity. A helper ingredient that's good at stabilizing water-based formulas and also serves as a thickener. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. The evidence that RP is still an effective anti-aging ingredient is not very strong, in fact, it's weak. Chemically speaking, it is ethoxylated Cetearyl alcohol, meaning that some ethylene oxide is added to the fatty alcohol to increase the water-soluble part in the molecule. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). an amazing humectant and moisturizer. Rohto HADA LABO Gokujyun Perfect Gel 5-in-1 Moisturizing Cream 100g from Japan 5 out of 5 stars (19) 19 product ratings - Rohto HADA LABO Gokujyun Perfect Gel 5-in-1 Moisturizing Cream 100g from Japan Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. Its anti-aging effects are quite questionable as well as its behavior in the presence of UVA light. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin. It also gives a "pleasing product aesthetics", so no wonder it's popular. It also helps to disperse insoluble particles (think color pigments or zinc/titanium dioxide sunscreen) nice and even in cosmetic formulas. DESCRIPTION Formulated with three types of Hyaluronic Acid, the Hada Labo Goku-Jyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion will keep skin smooth and hydrated. Also, it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreading emollient. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. CI 77492 or Iron Oxide is a common colorant with the color yellow. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection. Instructions : After removing your makeup and cleansing with HADA LABO Goku-jyun Face Wash, pour a nickel-size amount of the lotion into your palm and rub between your hands to warm. Similar to other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. It soothes, moisturizes and even shows some anti-aging magic properties. Yellow Iron Oxide is the super common inorganic (as in no carbon atom in the molecule) pigment that gives the yellow tones in your foundation. See the list below for … It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or even less. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). Arbutin Whitening Cream 50g. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? In cosmetics, it’s often in products that are supposed to keep your skin matte as it has great oil-absorbing abilities. See the list below for details. It works even better when combined with its pal, Ceramide 1. It’s a real goodie no matter if you eat it or put it on your face. Deeply Hydrating. The study was not done with real people on real skin but still - using a good sunscreen next to MP containing products is a good idea. The famous aloe vera. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid, where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. A white powdery thing that can mattify the skin and thicken up cosmetic products. The conversion is a 3 step one and looks like this: retinyl palmitate --> retinol -- > retinaldehyde --> all-trans-retinoic acid. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). Also used for scar treatment. It also acts as a thickening and gelling agent that creates nice, non-sticky and supple textures. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. A handy multifunctional ingredient that works as a preservative booster, as well as an antioxidant and soothing agent. stays on the skin) dimethicone as the two together form a water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel. Hada Labo Sha Hydrating A.C.E. It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Skin pH balanced, low irritation. Bella Vita Anti Aging Reviews Murad Anti Aging Moisturizer Expiration Date Anti Aging Face Mask With Egg. The number in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added and 20 makes a good emulsifier. In fact, the HADA LABO Goku-jyun Clear Lotion can be used as a standalone moisturizer. The key ingredient in Hada Labo Gokujyun range is Super Hyaluronic Acid, which is often known for its superior moisture retention properties. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. Bottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient (retinol or tretinoin is!). Thanks to this last thing, it allows a lower percentage of traditional preservative or it might even be able to completely replace them. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Or, if you feel your skin needs additional moisture after it has absorbed the HADA LABO Goku-jyun Clear Lotion, follow it with the HADA LABO Goku-jyun Serum, HADA LABO Goku-jyun Milk, or HADA LABO Goku-jyun Cream—or a combination of all three, depending on the level of your moisturizing needs One of the many types of ceramides that can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Nor, I’m afraid, are there any good reasons to recommend the use of RP". Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. A natural polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that can be found in the cell wall of green plants. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. It can be found naturally in the roots & leaves of the comfrey plant, but more often than not what's in the cosmetic products is produced synthetically. Contains 3X the concentration of Hada Labo SHA Hydrating Lotion to provide powerful moisture locking shield to fully hydrate skin from surface to the inner skin layer. Boost skin’s ability to absorb nutrients from the next skincare product. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid, where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. Chemically speaking, it is hydrated iron III oxide and depending on the conditions of manufacture, it can range from a light lemon to an orange-yellow shade. Jojoba-derived emollient wax esters (fatty acid + fatty alcohol) that make your skin feel nice and smooth. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. A vegetable-based, PEG-free ingredient whose job is to help water and oil to mix nicely together (emulsifier). It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. Sodium chloride is the fancy name of salt. BTW, lye is not something new. They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Portulaca Oleracea is a nice succulent with bright yellow flowers and edible nutritious vegetables. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits,  but it seems to fall short on several things. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). Other than that, salt also works as an emulsion stabilizer in water-in-oil emulsions, that is when water droplets are dispersed in the outer oil (or silicone) phase. An extremely common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. Good old water, aka H2O. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. Typically used at 1% or less in most formulations. The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane 65 … We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more. No wonder it’s popular. A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structured silicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). Has a strong one and looks like this: retinyl palmitate -- retinol! 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